POLO TIME

It's spring time, and spring in Argentina just without polo. Particularly within the upper class, polo is a big deal here in Argentina. "Polo" clothing is everywhere, and, right up there with the UK and the US, Argentina is known for some of the world's best polo.

This weekend and the next two weekends marks the Palermo polo tournament, one of the most important tournaments in Argentine polo, and my host mom took me (and her 15 year old grandson) to the field to catch a few games. It's a beautiful sport to watch, but after watching two games in the blazing heat I was pretty exhausted.

Regardless, I really enjoyed getting to spend the afternoon at the polo field with my host mom (she knows quite a lot about Polo)--although I would have been perfectly happy only attending one game instead of two :D

That red thing with the "movistar" sign wrapped around it is one of the two goal posts.

Pilará contra Chapa Uno

Love watching the horses race down the field....and I have no idea how the polo players manage to make contact with the ball while maintaining a gallop. I'm impressed.

I wish this one weren't blurry.

Clara got us great seats--I'm definitely not going to complain about the third row at the center of the field!

WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND

Buenos Aires is pretty big on fairs. Each neighborhood seems to be transformed by artisans every Saturday and Sunday. Recoleta (my barrio) has a fair at the cemetery, Palermo (my old barrio) has a fair at Plaza Serrano. The most well known, however, is in San Telmo, Buenos Aires' most bohemian neighborhood.

Over four months ago on my first Sunday in Buenos Aires, I went to the San Telmo fair with my parents and little brother. Sadly, today was my last Sunday in Buenos Aire (while I still have three weeks left in Argentina, I will be out of twon for the next three weekends), but I managed to enjoy it by returning to the San Telmo Fair for the first time since that rainy Sunday in July when I went with my family. In a stark contrast to my first trip to San Telmo, today was a beautiful sunny Sunday.

Today Robyn, Victoria, Janie and I mozied around the different stands that displayed everything from jewelry and photographs to antiques and puppets. Robyn and Janie snacked one vegetarian burritos while I got my hand read (for free) from some man selling necklaces. The fair goes on for about 15 blocks and culminates in a plaza which sells mainly antiques, and we walked the whole distance twice so that we could make sure we got the very best.

All in all, it was a lovely afternoon--quite peaceful and relaxing (and really helped me forget about the huge work load I have looming over myself right now). Neither the company nor the weather could have been better. It was a fabulous (and sentimental) way to spend my last Sunday in BA.

Various stands scattered down Defensa St. where the San Telmo Fair is located.

Tango dancers are a must at a Buenos Aires fair. This scens was special because multiple spectators joined in.

A stand in the antique section of the fair.

A charming little church we stumbled upon.

Loads and loads of musicians everywhere.

FOUR DOWN, ONE TO GO

I don't have anything all that profound to say, but I realized something--yesterday was the four month anniversary of the day I arrived in Argentina. Tomorrow marks exactly one month left in my time here. It's amazing how fast time has flown by. I've come to feel so comfortable here in Buenos Aires (I guess that's what happens after four months)--geographically, I feel like I know Buenos Aires even better than I know Houston--probably a result of walking/bussing/directing taxi drivers.

I will definitely excited to see friends and family (and to eat Mexican food for the first time in 5 months), but I can't believe my time here in BA is coming to a close (at least for now). I have so much to do within the next month. Here's a running list:

-Visit the Most Dangerous Zoo in the World and hold a baby tiger
-Hang out at Tierra Santa--what has got to be the only Jesus-themed theme park in the world
-Buy a pair of leather boots
-Return to the San Telmo Market
-Attend a polo game
-Take a tour of El Teatro Colón
-Christmas Shopping!!!
-Stock up on Malbec to bring back to friends and family in the States
-Visit the charming historical city of Colonia del Sacramento and the posh beach town of Punta del Este, both in Uruguay
-Travel to Patagonia

Quite the list--so many things to do, so little time. Oh, and I should probably study some so that I can pass all of my classes. These next two weeks are going to be miserable work-wise!

IT'S ABOUT TIME WE ARRIVED IN LATIN AMERICA

Because of my birthday (and limited internet connection) I didn’t have a chance to write about my trip to Northwest Argentina, to the regions of Salta, Jujuy and Tucuman from October 29 to November 3. I went with my two friends Janie and Lambros, and we had a spectacular time exploring the region in a rented car (moderately dangerous considering none of us had ever driven a manual car before—don’t worry though, Lambros watched you tube videos on how to drive stick before our departure). While Argentina is one of the least indigenous Latin American countries (93% of the country is white), the Northwest is known for being the country's most heavily indigenous region while also quite well known for it’s stunning natural landscape, often compared to Arizona and other parts of the United States’ Southwest.

While physically located in South America, culturally, Buenos Aires is located somewhere in between Italy and Spain. You can eat pasta in most restaurants in Buenos Aires, and you are much more likely to hear French or Italian when walking the streets than Quecha. The European influence here in Buenos Aires is astounding, and you often forget that you are indeed in South America. It’s easy to see why this city is often referred to as the Paris of Latin America.

However, as Lambros pointed out one day, on this trip we were, for the first time, visiting "Latin America." In Northwest Argentina I felt so much closer to Peru or Mexico than I did to Buenos Aires. The indigenous roots, the traditional artisanal crafts, the colonial (but not imperialistic) European influence—all of these things made us feel far away from Buenos Aires (and Europe). We even ran into Day of the Dead celebrations in Jujuy--something that I can't imagine seeing at Recoleta Cemetery.

The three of us really bonded on our six-day trip in Northwest Argentina, and we loved getting to see a new side of the country that we have come to love. Oh, and the killer views definitely didn’t hurt.

La Iglesia San Francisco in Salta. Can you note the Spanish Colonial influence?

La Catedral de Salta lit up at dusk.

Per the suggestion of a fellow hiker, we took Matrix-esque photos at La Garganta del Diablo*

Janie and I at la Garganta del Diablo in la Quebrada de las Conchas.

Janie and I dancin' by the side of the road in the Quebrada de las Conchas--on the drive between Salta (la ciudad) and Cafayate.

Soakin' up the scenery at los Castillos in La Quebrada de las Conchas*

Wine at Bodega Nani in Cafayate. The province of Salta--most specifically the area surrounding Cafayate--is known for a white wine called torrontés.

Cacti at the Quilmes Ruines in Tucuman. The Quilmes were a pre-Incan tribe who lived in the region up until the 17th Century when the Spaniards defeated them and forced them to move to the province of Buenos Aires where authorities could more easily control them. Many of the Quilmes people died on the 600 mile treck. Those who did survive the migration refused to reproduce and the tribe died out. Argentina's famous Quilmes beer has the same name because it is manufactured in the new Quilmes outside of Buenos Aires*

A local woman in Humuhuaca selling plastic floral wreathes outside of the cemetery for El Día de los Muertos. Now THIS is Latin America.

Flower wreaths for El Día de los Muertos.

Exploring the vineyard at Bodega Colombé*

Janie, Lambros and I at Bodega Colombé, Argentina's oldest and the world's highest vineyard*

Being silly in El Parque Nacional de los Cardones outside of Cachi, Salta*

I couldn't leave our hotel in Cachi without a picture in this fabulous hat.

You've gotta take optical illusion photos in the Salt Flats. One with coke was an obvious choice for me.

A wild vicuña that we spotted on the side of the road near the salt flats.

Artesanal crafts in Purmamarca, Jujuy*

*All starred photos were taken by Janie.

TWENTY ONE IN ARGENTINA

Most people probably don't dream of celebrating their 21st birthday in a foreign country. It's the type of birthday this is much more meaningful when celebrated on U.S. soil, but I certainly managed to make the most (along with the help of my friends) of an Argentine twenty-first birthday.

I convinced all of my friends that my twenty-first was reason enough for three days of celebration. On my actual birthday (Thursday, November 4) five of my closest friends and I went out to dinner at a French/Japanese fusion restaurant called To. Friday night a big group of friends joined me at the bar Congo followed by a failed clubbing attempt. Finally a 6 AM (I guess we are technically on to Saturday now) trip to our favorite early-morning locale: Mc Donald's. And then on Saturday Gaby, Janie and I went to the Black Eyed Peas concert with our French friends Aurdrey, Nath, Florian and Mateu. It was an unforgetable weekend.

My favorite part (and, quite possibly, my favorite Buenos Aires memory) was Thursday night dinner at To. We were the obnoxious Americans (the "photowhores" as Gaby likes to say) taking loads and loads of pictures right in the middle of the snazzy restaurant, but we couldn't have cared less. We made friends with the whole wait staff (who were in costume--they had a blast the week prior when celebrating Halloween). We pretty much took over the entire restaurant and stayed way past the hour when all of the other customers had left. We had a dance party with all of the the waiters and ended up staying until 2:30 in the morning. It was a blast--and a night that I will not soon forget. Such a great way to turn twenty-one (even if it wasn't on U.S. soil)!

The group at To: Gaby, Vic, me, Robyn, Jimmy and Janie.

Kiss train--I'm so lucky to be surrounded by such beautiful, fun-loving ladies!

Birthday love!

Dance party with the waiters--LOVED their costumes (I even managed to steal a few accessories as souvenirs).

The Texan debutants practice their bows.

Friday night at Congo.

Saturday night at the Black Eyed Peas concert. Their was a random station giving out lime green and blue wigs. We clearly needed them.

Gaby, Florian, Janie, I and Nath rockin' the wigs.

GOOD AND BAD HISTORY IN ARGENTINA

Today is a national holiday in Argentina—El Día del Censo Nacional. All businesses are required to close from 0:00 to 20:00 because everyone must be at home waiting for the censistas who come door to door in order to ensure accuracy.

Like in the states the census is typically conducted once every 10 years, but it’s been 20 years since a census was properly conducted because everyone forgot about the census in the wake of the 2001 financial crisis.

Because of the census today was supposed to be a historical day, but unfortunately, it’s going to be remembered for more than just the cenus. Early this morning former President Nestor Kirchner (president from 2003 to 2007) who was also a leading contender for the 2011 presidential elections and the wife of current president Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner died of a heart attack.

If you’d like to read more the Wall Street Journal published a pretty good article this morning: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702304173704575578072298219914.html?mod=WSJ_newsreel_world

In spite of the huge loss, government officials insisted that the census go on. Tonight at 8 PM once the census is officially over, there will be a massive demonstration at the famous Plaza de Mayo in front of La Casa Rosada—Argentina’s version of the White House.

Fuerza Cristina--that's the phrase of the day.

Home page of the Argentine newspaper Página 12.

La Nación.

Clarín.

ARGENTINA HAPPENS, RECOVERING FROM FIACA

My apologies for disappearing for the past month. It's a result of what we down here in Argentina call "fiaca." It roughly translates to laziness. My fiaca was in relation to this blog, in part because my life has pretty much spun out of control over the past month (although it's slowly starting to normalize a bit). So, here we go, I'm going to try to summarize the past month in a few paragraphs so that I don't bore you too much (although I am one to ramble)...

UBA, UBA, UBA. Wow. What an experience. So I've already talked about the student strike a great deal, but the whole situation continued to get worse until things pretty much exploded in the sixth week of the strike when students stormed the ministry of education and tried to take over the building. Multiple students were arrested and three were injured. Basically, this act of violence gave the students the TV time they so badly desired (the government and the media had made an agreement to not avoid giving students media attention), so they finally, after 45 days, lifted the toma.

The only problem is that in a 14 week long semester you can't just miss 6 weeks of class and pretend nothing happened. The administration made the decision to lengthen the semester until the end of December (past Christmas and way past the date of the return flight to the U.S. that I booked months ago).

IFSA (my study abroad program) created a "Plan B" for us so that we will hopefully still be able to get credit from our home universities (although I'm still not 100% sure because Stanford is being difficult and won't give me concrete answers). Two make up for one UBA class you have two IFSA options: 1. Take two 3 unit classes that each meat for four hours a week (these classes cram 12 weeks worth of material down into two weeks) or 2. Do independent research and write a 20 page paper. For most students this wasn't choosing one of these options wasn't the biggest deal, but I was one of 8 students taking two UBA classes, so it totally and completely changed my schedule. I am now taking two of the new emergency "Plan B" IFSA classes (Historia Argentina and Historia Latinoamericana) and writing an independent research paper on the Social Geography of Latin America.

Because of now lengthened semester and the uncertainty of wether or not I would be able to receive credit for my UBA classes, I had to drop both of them. I know it wasn't failure or anything on my part because the whole situation was completely out of my control, but it sure felt like I was failing. I choose to deal with the whole logistical mess of doing a non-Stanford program so that I could take classes with local students, and now, after 4 weeks of class and 6 weeks of strike, I'm stuck taking classes with all Americans. Yes, I did get a few weeks of class with Argentines, but regardless, it's frustrating to have something I've wanted so badly for so long taken way from me. I'm kind of (I lie...really) Type A, and I don't deal very well with people messing with my plans (particularily when they are four years in the making).

Okay, so here goes my language, but I really think it's necessary: Yea, so I'm pissed off at Argentina and all of the strikes. I'm pissed off at the selfish minority of studente from the Patido Obrero who so selfishly took over the university and screwed up not only my semester but also the semesters of so many Argentine students who have a genuine desire to learn. They waisted SIX WEEKS of our lives. Yes, I get they were fighting for something they believe in, but is taking over the university buildings and preventing anyone from learning really the most effective way to achieve change? By preventing classes from occurring the only people they are really hurting are themselves! But, shit happens. Argentina happens. This is a reality here. Strikes happen all the time. Yea, this one did get a little out of hand--to historical proportions--but that's part of life here. It's something that very few foreigners really get to experience. In some ways I'm really quite fortunate to be able to experience Argentina--both the positive and the negative. So while I may not be able to complete one of my goals--taking classes with Argentines--at least I'm getting to complete another--getting to truly and completely know Argentina.