TWENTY ONE IN ARGENTINA

Most people probably don't dream of celebrating their 21st birthday in a foreign country. It's the type of birthday this is much more meaningful when celebrated on U.S. soil, but I certainly managed to make the most (along with the help of my friends) of an Argentine twenty-first birthday.

I convinced all of my friends that my twenty-first was reason enough for three days of celebration. On my actual birthday (Thursday, November 4) five of my closest friends and I went out to dinner at a French/Japanese fusion restaurant called To. Friday night a big group of friends joined me at the bar Congo followed by a failed clubbing attempt. Finally a 6 AM (I guess we are technically on to Saturday now) trip to our favorite early-morning locale: Mc Donald's. And then on Saturday Gaby, Janie and I went to the Black Eyed Peas concert with our French friends Aurdrey, Nath, Florian and Mateu. It was an unforgetable weekend.

My favorite part (and, quite possibly, my favorite Buenos Aires memory) was Thursday night dinner at To. We were the obnoxious Americans (the "photowhores" as Gaby likes to say) taking loads and loads of pictures right in the middle of the snazzy restaurant, but we couldn't have cared less. We made friends with the whole wait staff (who were in costume--they had a blast the week prior when celebrating Halloween). We pretty much took over the entire restaurant and stayed way past the hour when all of the other customers had left. We had a dance party with all of the the waiters and ended up staying until 2:30 in the morning. It was a blast--and a night that I will not soon forget. Such a great way to turn twenty-one (even if it wasn't on U.S. soil)!

The group at To: Gaby, Vic, me, Robyn, Jimmy and Janie.

Kiss train--I'm so lucky to be surrounded by such beautiful, fun-loving ladies!

Birthday love!

Dance party with the waiters--LOVED their costumes (I even managed to steal a few accessories as souvenirs).

The Texan debutants practice their bows.

Friday night at Congo.

Saturday night at the Black Eyed Peas concert. Their was a random station giving out lime green and blue wigs. We clearly needed them.

Gaby, Florian, Janie, I and Nath rockin' the wigs.

GOOD AND BAD HISTORY IN ARGENTINA

Today is a national holiday in Argentina—El Día del Censo Nacional. All businesses are required to close from 0:00 to 20:00 because everyone must be at home waiting for the censistas who come door to door in order to ensure accuracy.

Like in the states the census is typically conducted once every 10 years, but it’s been 20 years since a census was properly conducted because everyone forgot about the census in the wake of the 2001 financial crisis.

Because of the census today was supposed to be a historical day, but unfortunately, it’s going to be remembered for more than just the cenus. Early this morning former President Nestor Kirchner (president from 2003 to 2007) who was also a leading contender for the 2011 presidential elections and the wife of current president Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner died of a heart attack.

If you’d like to read more the Wall Street Journal published a pretty good article this morning: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702304173704575578072298219914.html?mod=WSJ_newsreel_world

In spite of the huge loss, government officials insisted that the census go on. Tonight at 8 PM once the census is officially over, there will be a massive demonstration at the famous Plaza de Mayo in front of La Casa Rosada—Argentina’s version of the White House.

Fuerza Cristina--that's the phrase of the day.

Home page of the Argentine newspaper Página 12.

La Nación.

Clarín.

ARGENTINA HAPPENS, RECOVERING FROM FIACA

My apologies for disappearing for the past month. It's a result of what we down here in Argentina call "fiaca." It roughly translates to laziness. My fiaca was in relation to this blog, in part because my life has pretty much spun out of control over the past month (although it's slowly starting to normalize a bit). So, here we go, I'm going to try to summarize the past month in a few paragraphs so that I don't bore you too much (although I am one to ramble)...

UBA, UBA, UBA. Wow. What an experience. So I've already talked about the student strike a great deal, but the whole situation continued to get worse until things pretty much exploded in the sixth week of the strike when students stormed the ministry of education and tried to take over the building. Multiple students were arrested and three were injured. Basically, this act of violence gave the students the TV time they so badly desired (the government and the media had made an agreement to not avoid giving students media attention), so they finally, after 45 days, lifted the toma.

The only problem is that in a 14 week long semester you can't just miss 6 weeks of class and pretend nothing happened. The administration made the decision to lengthen the semester until the end of December (past Christmas and way past the date of the return flight to the U.S. that I booked months ago).

IFSA (my study abroad program) created a "Plan B" for us so that we will hopefully still be able to get credit from our home universities (although I'm still not 100% sure because Stanford is being difficult and won't give me concrete answers). Two make up for one UBA class you have two IFSA options: 1. Take two 3 unit classes that each meat for four hours a week (these classes cram 12 weeks worth of material down into two weeks) or 2. Do independent research and write a 20 page paper. For most students this wasn't choosing one of these options wasn't the biggest deal, but I was one of 8 students taking two UBA classes, so it totally and completely changed my schedule. I am now taking two of the new emergency "Plan B" IFSA classes (Historia Argentina and Historia Latinoamericana) and writing an independent research paper on the Social Geography of Latin America.

Because of now lengthened semester and the uncertainty of wether or not I would be able to receive credit for my UBA classes, I had to drop both of them. I know it wasn't failure or anything on my part because the whole situation was completely out of my control, but it sure felt like I was failing. I choose to deal with the whole logistical mess of doing a non-Stanford program so that I could take classes with local students, and now, after 4 weeks of class and 6 weeks of strike, I'm stuck taking classes with all Americans. Yes, I did get a few weeks of class with Argentines, but regardless, it's frustrating to have something I've wanted so badly for so long taken way from me. I'm kind of (I lie...really) Type A, and I don't deal very well with people messing with my plans (particularily when they are four years in the making).

Okay, so here goes my language, but I really think it's necessary: Yea, so I'm pissed off at Argentina and all of the strikes. I'm pissed off at the selfish minority of studente from the Patido Obrero who so selfishly took over the university and screwed up not only my semester but also the semesters of so many Argentine students who have a genuine desire to learn. They waisted SIX WEEKS of our lives. Yes, I get they were fighting for something they believe in, but is taking over the university buildings and preventing anyone from learning really the most effective way to achieve change? By preventing classes from occurring the only people they are really hurting are themselves! But, shit happens. Argentina happens. This is a reality here. Strikes happen all the time. Yea, this one did get a little out of hand--to historical proportions--but that's part of life here. It's something that very few foreigners really get to experience. In some ways I'm really quite fortunate to be able to experience Argentina--both the positive and the negative. So while I may not be able to complete one of my goals--taking classes with Argentines--at least I'm getting to complete another--getting to truly and completely know Argentina.

HEAVY ON THE WINE, LIGHT ON THE BLUE

I just got back from Mendoza this morning, and it wasn’t an easy trip—a 16 hour bus ride there and an 18 hour bus ride back (the trip is only supposed to be about 14 hours, but my experiences tell me delays are pretty common). Our group of six girls (Gaby, Francesca, Robyn, Janie, Victoria and I ) arrived in Mendoza early Friday afternoon. After checking into to Monkey Hostel, Gaby, Francesca and I split up with the other girls in order to go paragliding.

The whole paragliding experience was not nearly as scary as I had expected. You did get a bit of an adrenaline rush when jumping off the side of the mountain, but once up in the air, paragliding was quite relaxing. It moved fairly slowly, and I got to soak up the beautify mountains (I think they were the Andes, but they could have been the Sierras) that surrounded me. Approximately every minute my paragliding instructor who I was strapped to kept asking me if I was okay. It seemed a little strange, but upon my arrival safely on the ground I found out just way he was doing this—about 1 in 10 first-time paragliders get sick. I was fine, but my friend Gaby was not so fortunate…I’ll leave it at that.

Saturday was my favorite day since I arrived here in Argentina. The six of us girls plus Mike and Adam (two other IFSA boys) and Flal and Nath (two French boys I met here in Buenos Aires) all headed out of the city toward Maipu where we rented bikes at Mr. Hugo’s. From there we biked down a beautiful tree-lined street (mountain views off to the sided, of course) as we went from vineyard to vineyard. The highlight was our lunch at Bodega Vistantes where we sat on a patio next to a lake with views of the vineyard in the distance. Great food and great company!

Totally and completely exhausted post-biking tour of the vineyards we got back to the hostel around 8 PM and everyone pretty much crashed immediately. We then had a pretty lazy Sunday before getting on the bus at 4:00 PM. I absolutely LOVED Mendoza—it was a nice break from the big city—but come Sunday I was ready to get back home to BA. It’s amazing how going a way for a few days makes you realize just how at home you really are. I sure have fallen hard for Buenos Aires!

That's Francesca with either the Sierras or the Andes in the background--we weren't quite sure...

There goes Gaby!

A picture of paragliding from taken from my paragliding contraption.

Biking with Gaby, mountains in the background--a pretty impressive view.

The beautiful tree-line road that we biked down to get from bodega to bodega.

The group at the Bodega Familia di Tommaso.

This vault like-thing was previously used to store huge quantities of wine while it underwent the transformation from grape juice to wine. It's now used to store wine bottles at the perfect temperature--just like a huge wine vault.

Wine at the Bodega Familia di Tommaso. They export a malbec to the U.S. where it costs $25 USD. Here the same bottle costs 25 argentine pesos (1/4 of the price)!

Empanadas--the best reward after a long bike ride.

Steak drenched in a malbec sauce @ Vistantes Bodega. The best meal I've had here in Argentina, possibly in my life.

The girls post-vineyard tour.

SPRING HAS SPRUNG

Today is both El Día del Estudiante and the first day of Spring, so that means everyone heads out to the aire libre, takes in the sun and enjoys one of Buenos Aires' many parks. I was origionaly supposed to have a midterm today, but my professor e-mailed us about 20 hours before the exam to tell us it would have to be postponed because of the student strike which is still going on. Typical. I only wish I'd known sooner so that I hadn't spend so much time studying. But oh well, that's how things are at UBA. We were going to have our midterm in spite of the holiday, but since it was canceled at the last minute I got to participate in the festivities.

I went to the ecological park located near Puerto Madero and enjoyed the beautiful day. It was packed with groups of friends running around, laughing, chatting and snacking on the picnics they had prepared. The whole thing just had really great energy, and it made me happy seeing so many people enjoying the company of their friends on El Día del Estudiante.

As for the first day of spring, there aren't two many corresponding activities, but it is a tradition to give your friends/loved ones flowers, so everyone was walking around with bouquets in tow, so this only added to the positive energy. Today was a lovely day--two holidays in one! If only I could bring back these traditions to the U.S.!

RAVEWINDTUNNELCIRCUSBLUENIGHTBOLICHEFUERZABRUT

Last night I went to Fuerza Bruta with a my Gaby, Janie and Robyn. I don't really know how to describe Fuerza Bruta--it's some sort of intense theatrical experience that began here in Buenos Aires. The whole audience is standing up for the entire performance. The stage moves during the performance, pushing around the audience. It's the type of thing that can't really be adequately described in words--you really just have to experience it. Nevertheless, Gaby, Janie, Robyn and I did our best to describe the experience in word. We came up with some sort of modern, urban circus.

We made the deliberate decision to go on a Friday night because on a Friday the show turns into a boliche (argentine word for a "dance club") at intermission and at the end of the show. It's such an intense experience to go from the show straight into a dance club. The two run together fluidly because the cast comes down and dances with you, so you literally become a part of the show. The transition from show to dance club is flawless.

During the boliche part we managed to make friends with multiple members of the cast (aided by Robyn's trippy neon striped fishnet tights that seemed to attract everyone), and we talked to them about the history of the show, the creative process, and what it like to be in the show. They even invited us to come to the cast after-party, but following the intense experience that was Fuerza Bruta we didn't really have the energy for another boliche. They did however tell us that if we want to go back to call them up and they'll get us free tickets. We are definitely hitting them up there. Oh, and the plan is to go shopping for the brightest, most intense rave costumes before hand so that we can insure all of us are invited up on stage to dance.

Oh, and one last thing, Fuerza Bruta has a troupe in NYC right now, so if you are anywhere near New York, GO! You will love it. I promise you that.

Since describing Fuerza Bruta in words is near impossible, here are some pictures I took during the show:

Gaby, Janie and I under the blue lights of Fuerza Bruta anxiously awaiting the show's inception.

Man walkin'

The dream scene.

So trippy.

Run run run!

Bustin' through.

While Fuerza Bruta is mainly trippy acts there was a little bit of choreographed dancing.

One of the actors broke some weird styrofoam confetti box thing on Robyn's head.

Confetti!

That's Robyn right there on the left rockin' out after being invited up on stage.

This is this giant tub-like thing that lowered down and then raised up again...

Four women splash around in the water tub overhead.

Splish splash.

So trippy.

The end of the show. Kind of profound.

ARGENTINA VS. ESPANA

This past weekend was my two month anniversary since I arrived here in Argentina. It's been too months, and I'm yet to post one thing on my blog about soccer...I mean futbol. It's kind of a big deal here in Argentina. Unfortunately I arrived in the country just days after Argentina was eliminated from the World Cup, but no need to be worried, there's still plenty of soccer to go around.

A week ago today (September 7), the argentine national team played Spain in a friendly exposition game, and I was lucky enough to get tickets. My only problem was who root for--I lived in Spain for a full year while I've only been here in Argentina for two months. I have a feeling this might change over the course of my time here, but thus far my heart is still reaches out to Spain (it's also pretty hard not to be a Spanish soccer fan after their 2008 Eurocup victory and their World Cup win this year). However, I decided that wearing red and gold might be a bad idea, so I choose a much safer option--a with top with a light blue scarf. Only there's a catch--I wore red and gold underwear :D

In the end Argentina beat Spain 4-1, but I blame this on the fact that Spain send their B team since all of their top players are playing in their European leagues, while Argentina had all of their best players in the game. The game was a lot calmer than I expected, but I guess that is a result of it not really counting for anything. All in all it was a great afternoon, and it surely won't be my last futbol game here in Argentina.

Check out the photos below that my friend Jess took (I was too scared to bring my camera to the stadium because of the rowdy spectators):

A beautiful shot of el estado de River, the home stadium of one of Buenos Aires' top two teams.

Check out Messi, number 10. He's a national hero.

River Stadium at night.

River's colors are conveniently red and white. Their mortal enemy Boca is also sponsored by coke, but the signs are black and white because Boca couldn't possibly have River's colors all over the stadium.

Kevin, Allison and I at the game.

Loads and loads of light blue and white confetti that was sprayed everywhere at the beginning of the game. ¡VAMOS ARGENTINA!